A Guide to Antique Jewellery Valuation in the UK

October 10, 2025 Rankifly SEO Agency

Have you inherited a family heirloom or received a piece of old jewellery as a gift? You might be wondering what it is and, more importantly, what it’s worth. An antique jewellery valuation is the key to unlocking the story and true value behind your treasures, providing crucial information for insurance, a potential sale, or simply for peace of mind.

But what does a valuation involve, and how can you ensure you get an accurate and trustworthy assessment?

This guide walks you through the entire process. We’ll explain why you might need a valuation, what gives antique jewellery its value, and how to find a qualified professional in the UK.

What’s the Difference Between Antique and Vintage?

First, should you be searching for an antique or a vintage valuation? The terms are often mixed up, but they have specific meanings in the jewellery trade.

Antique Jewellery: An item is officially considered antique if it is at least 100 years old. This covers pieces from eras like the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Nouveau periods.
Vintage Jewellery: This category generally includes items that are between 20 and 99 years old. A piece from the 1970s, for example, is vintage, not antique.

When Do You Need a Professional Valuation?

Why do you need to get your jewellery valued? The purpose of the valuation directly influences the type of assessment and the final figure provided.

Insurance Replacement: This valuation provides a figure for replacing your item with a similar piece of the same age and quality from a specialist retailer. It is the highest value and is essential for your home insurance policy.
Fair Market or Auction Value: This figure reflects what a piece would likely achieve in an open market, such as at auction. It’s lower than an insurance value and is the one you need if you are considering selling.
Probate (IHT): For inheritance tax purposes, a probate valuation is required. It’s based on a fair market value at the date of the owner’s death.
Family Division or Matrimonial: This valuation provides a fair, mid-level figure for the equitable division of assets during a divorce or family settlement.

What Are the Key Drivers of Value?

How does a specialist determine the worth of your antique jeewellery valuations? It’s a combination of factors that tell a complete story.

Period and Style: Is it a rare example of Georgian design or a classic Victorian locket? The era, its design characteristics, and its rarity are fundamental.
Maker’s Marks: A signature from a famous maker like Cartier, Garrard, or Lalique can dramatically increase its value.
Craftsmanship: The quality of the handiwork—such as fine enamel, detailed engraving, or complex stone setting—is a major contributor to value.
Metal Purity: The type and purity of the precious metal (e.g., 18ct gold vs. 9ct gold, platinum) are assessed.
Gemstone Quality: Antique jewellery features unique cuts like the Old Mine, Old European, and Rose Cut. A valuer assesses their quality, size, and colour differently from modern stones.
Condition and Originality: Is the piece in its original state? Damage, major repairs, or conversions (like a brooch turned into a ring) will affect its value.
Provenance: A verifiable history, especially a connection to a notable person or event, adds immense value. Original boxes, receipts, and family letters all contribute to its provenance.

How to Read Hallmarks and Date Your Jewellery

How can you get a clue about your jewellery’s age and origin before seeing an expert? Look for the hallmarks. These tiny stamps are a legal requirement on British precious metals.

A classic set of UK hallmarks includes:

Standard Mark: Indicates the metal’s purity (e.g., a lion for sterling silver, a crown or number for gold).
Assay Office Mark: Shows where it was tested (e.g., a leopard’s head for London, an anchor for Birmingham).
Date Letter: A specific letter in a unique shield shape that corresponds to a year.
Duty Mark: A monarch’s head, showing tax was paid (found on pieces between 1784 and 1890).

You can usually find hallmarks on the inside of a ring’s band, on the reverse of a pendant, or near the clasp of a necklace. Use your phone’s camera zoom to get a clear picture.

The Professional Valuation Process Step-by-Step

What happens when you entrust your jewellery to an expert?

Intake: The valuer documents each item you bring in and confirms the purpose of the valuation. Your items are insured while in their care.
Examination: Each piece is carefully cleaned, weighed, and measured. The valuer uses a microscope to inspect for marks, assess the condition, and check gemstone settings.
Authentication & Testing: Gemstones and metals are identified using non-invasive professional tools, including gemmological instruments, UV light, and sometimes X-ray fluorescence (XRF) to confirm metal composition.
Research: The valuer researches hallmarks, maker’s signatures, and design styles to pinpoint the age and origin. They consult databases of past auction results and market data to find comparable items.
The Report: You receive a formal, legal document. It includes detailed descriptions, high-quality photographs, and the final valuation figure for each piece, clearly stating its purpose (e.g., “for insurance replacement”).

Costs and Turnaround Times in the UK

Reputable valuers charge an hourly rate or a per-item fee, not a percentage of the final value. Expect to pay between £80 and £150 per hour. A simple valuation might take a week or two, while complex collections needing in-depth research can take longer.

How to Prepare for Your Valuation

How can you help the process go as smoothly as possible?

Don’t Clean It Aggressively: A gentle wipe with a soft cloth is fine, but avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive polishing that could damage delicate materials or remove valuable patina.
Gather Your Documents: Any previous valuation reports, original receipts, or gemstone certificates are very helpful.
Write Down the Provenance: Make notes on any family history or stories connected to the piece. Who owned it? When was it acquired?
Take Photos: For your own records, take clear photos of your items before handing them over.

Selling Your Antique Jewellery

If your goal is to sell, a valuation can guide you. An auction estimate (fair market value) is your starting point.

Auction Estimate: This is the best route for unique, high-demand, or signed pieces where competitive bidding can maximise the price.
Dealer Offer: A direct sale to a reputable dealer can be quicker and simpler. It is often suitable for items with a more standard market value.

Restoration: Should You or Shouldn’t You?

Resist the urge to “fix” a piece before having it valued. A well-intentioned but inappropriate repair can harm its value. A professional valuer can advise if a sensitive restoration by a specialist conservator would be beneficial. Often, the original, worn condition is part of its history and appeal.

Where to Get Your Antique Jewellery Valued

How do you find an expert you can trust? Look for recognised qualifications and affiliations.

Key Credentials: Look for valuers who are a Fellow of the Gemmological Association (FGA), a Diamond Member (DGA), or a Member of the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV).
Where to Find Them: These experts can be found at specialist valuation consultancies, leading auction houses, or the valuation departments of high-end independent jewellers.

Common Pitfalls and Scams

Percentage-Based Fees: Avoid anyone who charges based on the jewellery’s final value, as this creates a conflict of interest.
Unsolicited Offers: Be wary of instant cash offers made without proper examination or research.
Lack of Credentials: Always ask about a valuer’s qualifications and experience with antique pieces specifically.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I get my jewellery re-valued for insurance?
Market prices for gold, platinum, and gemstones change. It is wise to have your items re-valued every three to five years to ensure your insurance cover remains adequate.

Can a piece be valued from photographs?
A specialist can often provide a preliminary opinion or auction estimate from clear photos, but a formal, legally binding valuation can only be completed after a physical inspection.

What if the hallmarks are too worn to read?
An experienced valuer can still often date and identify a piece accurately based on its manufacturing techniques, gemstone cuts, and overall style.

A professional antique jewellery valuation does more than just assign a price tag. It uncovers the history held within a piece and gives you the knowledge to protect its legacy for the future.